Poland’s Borne Sulinowo: The secret town where Soviets hid nukes

(CNN) — Some phone it the ghost town, because for many years it didn’t seem on any maps — a clandestine locale that at the height of the Chilly War probably concealed a deadly arsenal of nuclear weapons able of wiping out major Western cities.

Many others refer to it as the Polish Chernobyl, simply because the cloak of secrecy thrown up close to its radioactive mysteries drew nervous comparisons to the exclusion zone encompassing the catastrophe-hit Ukrainian electric power station.

But today, Borne Sulinowo, in northern Poland’s West Pomeranian area, is emerging as an remarkable vacation destination for adventure seekers seeking to check out a wonderful organic location, and a comparatively unfamiliar Soviet hotspot with a quite darkish past.

Reaching this town from Szczecin, the region’s capital, requires a extensive push via Poland’s mostly rural lowlands, a terrain that also nonetheless carries the legacy of the Chilly War.

Nowhere extra so than the city of Drawsko Pomorskie, the place of the biggest military instruction floor for NATO troops in Europe.

Last year, tens of 1000’s of military staff poured into the space, making use of the address provided by the landscape of lakes and dense forest for Defender-Europe 20, claimed to be the major military services physical exercise on the continent for quarter of a century.

Head an hour further more east from Drawsko, exactly where the forest turns into further and quieter, and you will arrive at the former forbidden zone of Borne Sulinowo.

Mysterious city

The ruins of a previous Soviet armed service medical center.

Malgosia Krakowska

Prior to the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991, this put was accessible only for all those with a unique move, or “пропуск” in Russian. Everybody else stayed absent and pretended they understood absolutely nothing about it. It was closed, concealed and best avoided.

Nearly 12,000 Soviet troops were stationed in the Borne Sulinowo army advanced at the top of the Chilly War. They ended up element of the Northern Team of Forces current in Poland as section of the Warsaw Pact arrangement in between the Soviet Union and Eastern Bloc socialist republics.

”The position was a massive building web page for troops and armed forces facilities,” Wiesław Bartoszek, operator of the nearby museum in Borne Sulinowo, tells CNN Journey.

“Just after 1945, when the Soviets took more than the place, the complicated had turn into section of the Warsaw Pact military services options, which bundled significant drills that prepared the ground and air forces for an invasion of the West.

”There was only one particular street major there, a single railway track ending up in the mysterious city at the rear of electrified fences.”

Individuals residing near Borne Sulinowo have been, apparently, way too frightened to even mention it.

Even ahead of the arrival of the Soviets, the town experienced mostly been off restrictions.

Prior to Planet War II, when the region was portion of Germany, the town was regarded as Gross Born, and functioned as a armed service base and instruction floor. Adolf Hitler was photographed browsing in 1938.

In 1939, panzer troops stationed below less than command of Normal Heinz Guderian released the invasion of Poland that would set off world conflict. Later it was used to dwelling prisoners of war.

Adolf Hitler visited the German military base at Gross Born in 1938.

Adolf Hitler visited the German armed service foundation at Gross Born in 1938.

Keystone/Hulton Archive/Getty Photographs

The Germans crafted most of the infrastructure later on used by the Soviets. There were barracks for troops, a railway and a substantial navy healthcare facility elaborate that currently stands deserted, its remains an enigma waiting to be explored by people.

Stability fences and barbed wire are long absent, leaving the abandoned grounds vast open up to curious readers. Website visitors wander among trees and bushes that have sprung up all around the skeletons of the remaining properties.

Bartoszek says that the location is particularly preferred with travelers through the summertime time. He likes to inform them the tale of a mysterious tunnel that operates beneath the healthcare facility, connecting a area made use of for dissecting human bodies to the railway. Researchers are continue to unsure what it was utilised for.

Nuclear warheads

Birch crosses mark the graves of soldiers who died after being incarcerated at Gross Born.

Birch crosses mark the graves of soldiers who died right after becoming incarcerated at Gross Born.

Vadim Pacajev/Sipa United states/AP

Presently, Borne Sulinowo is a residential district. After the Soviets remaining, the barracks ended up converted into apartments. The railway was eliminated and turned into the major highway.

“Men and women arrived to Borne from other sections of Poland simply because the flats were really low-priced,” says Bartoszek. About 5,000 folks now dwell below.

Some of the functional structures have been restored and refurbished about the a long time. A Soviet-era clinic is intact and has been renovated. One more H-formed setting up in the town’s centre is now a nursing home and rehabilitation device for patients with numerous sclerosis.

The town however shows indications of its previous, nevertheless. Some properties, this kind of as the grand framework that housed the aged officers’ mess, are now decaying and in will need of renovation. Marbled walls discuss of their former glory.

When it may possibly appear like it truly is found greater days, the city hopes to draw in traders by advertising alone as a vacation spot for tourists on the lookout to examine the encompassing wilderness — and perhaps check out a piece of Soviet heritage.

The pine and oak forests are loaded with lakes, streams, rivers and ponds and are ideal for biking and climbing throughout the summer season year. It is also prosperous with wildlife together with wild boars, deer and pheasants.

Driving this fascination are tales about nuclear warheads that after have been hidden in huge silos in the spot, one of a few nuclear weapons amenities built in western Poland.

Rocket silos

Borne Sulinowo-7

Archeologists say Soviet nuclear warheads had been stored in this article, completely ready for assaults on Western Europe.

Courtesy Malgosia Krakowska

The Soviet Union explicitly denied stockpiling nuclear missiles in Poland but archaeologists who investigated the area by delving into archives of declassified satellite photographs and analyzing building scans are convinced otherwise.

”Some of the enormous silos for these warheads are identified close to Borne Sulinowo in the village of Brzezńica-Kolonia,” claims Bartoszek. “Through the communist period, the zone was one particular of the most effective held secret locations in Europe.”

These storage chambers are now neglected and vandalized. Their concrete walls, coated in graffiti, are in surprisingly superior shape but other installations or furnishings are missing. The storage chambers — roughly 70 meters lengthy and 10 meters superior — are buried less than a thick layer of soil and lined with grass.

An additional nuclear web site, Podborsko, to the north of Borne Sulinowo, has been converted into a museum dedicated to the Cold War army existence.

Bartoszek explains that the missiles ended up prepared to be employed as a tactical weapon, targeted at metropolitan areas like Amsterdam and Paris. The energy of the warheads diversified from about .5 to 500 kilotons.


Now a museum, this bunker in Podborsko contains gear apparently employed to retailer nuclear warheads.

courtesy of Grzegorz Kiarszys. www.trzeciazona.pl

The construction of the large silos for rockets was completed in 1969, funded in full by the Polish People’s Republic communist governing administration according to the programs geared up by the Soviets.

”Only Russian troops could entry the website,” Bartoszek claims. “The entire region was excluded from the Polish jurisdiction. This was a de facto Russian territory.”

After the collapse of the Soviet Union and the close of the Warsaw Pact, all the maps documenting the location were ruined.

Archaeologists like Grzegorz Kiarszys, an adjunct professor at the Institute of Heritage and International Relations in Poland who is the writer of the very first in-depth examine into the intricate, have established the site of the silos.

Kiarszys relied on declassified CIA satellite images, floor-penetrating radar and checks for symptoms of radiation. According to his investigation, no contamination was detected.

Today, an emptiness looms about these abandoned and devastated structures.

Although the forests and lakes that encompass them will ideally soon, when the pandemic is in excess of, provide leisure for vacationers, these relics of totalitarianism and its nuclear ambitions will also provide as a reminder of a darker chapter in our record.

Malgosia Krakowska is Polish-born journalist who covers Poland for international information stores.

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